Happy Christmas

Coc'nuts roasting in an open fire
Green moss tickling at your toes
Warm tidal farrows meet the sun by the mire
And folks dressed up in summer clothes

Everybody knows
A surf beach and has a mellow tan
Coast line stretching far and wide
Briney spots serving shrimp upon a wire
Won't find it hard to eat tonight.

We know that life in the F.L.A.
Is loaded with joys and goodies by the way
And every lover's wild is gonna sigh
To be in paradise for a while

So we're offering you this simple phrase
As we jump into our pool
Although it's been said
Many times, many ways:
Merry Christmas to you.
   (sung to Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire)

We made Jacksonville Beach on Thursday December 17th.  By the numbers, we have now traveled 970 miles down the Chesapeake and Inter Coastal Waterway.  We've been 65 days on Second Wind, and been underway 26 of them.  We've averaged  37 miles a day at 6.2 mph.  And, for the real boat geeks, we have averaged 1.33 gals/hour in fuel consumption over 156 hours.

Cece and I have spent almost 1,600 hours togeather, nonstop.  We are still talking to each other.  And, yes, we've had a wonderful time ..... but it's time to get off the boat and celebrate the holidays with family.  And, possibly, spend a couple hours apart.

We start with a few days in Ponte Vedra, FL with my 92 year old father and Keith his wife.  It has been many years since we've celebrated Christmas with dad, and much to be thankful for in celebrating this year with them.  On December 22nd we fly to New Orleans to spend Christmas with our daughter, fiancé, son, and his significant other.  It will be the first Christmas we spend away from our home without entertaining the kids around our own tree.  Another in life's milestones. 

Finally, at the end of the month we will fly back to Annapolis to spend some time with family, friends, our oldest son, daughter in law, and grandchildren.

But, as the Holidays approach, we want to wish all our friends a very Happy Christmas.  And, remember we have an extra berth waiting as we start a new year.   
 
  Joy, to all, Happy New Year .
 
 
 
 

Georgia On My Mind

Georgia, Georgia,
The whole day through
Just an old sweet song
Keeps Georgia on my mind

Sunday, December 13^th , we left Hilton Head, South Carolina, and turned south towards the state of Georgia.  With a low pressure weather system parked over us, we had warm weather and light breezes forecast.  And so, we headed towards the Savannah River.  Georgia remains the forgotten region along the Inter-coastal Waterway, and for good reason.  Because it meanders, across a marsh grass horizon, Georgia’s 100 mile coastline translates into about 140 miles of slow methodical work against massive tides.  Many boaters choose to go offshore at Charleston rather than suffer the currents and switchbacks of Georgia’s Inter-coastal Waterway.

 Our plan however was to spend four days working our way through the state.  We planned one night at anchor and two nights at marinas.  During the days we looked forward to viewing one of the most pristine and beautiful coastal areas in this country.

Boat traffic headed south along this stretch was very light.  The snowbirds were about 30 days ahead of us, and it was rare to see other boats transiting the waterway. Birds, porpoise, and marshland, however, were not rare.  Daytime temperatures were in the mid 70s with sunshine.  This weather allowed perfect viewing of the vast vistas that open up around the many sounds, marshes, and rivers that we transited.  In its entirety, the days were almost dreamlike in their perfection.
There are not many cities along the Georgia coast, but the waterway does transit many sea islands.  These large unspoiled islands protect behind them low lying marshlands.  We measured progress south by passing the sea islands of Tybee, Wassaw, Ossabaw, St Catherines, Blackbeard, Sapelo, Wolf, St Simons, Jekyll, and finally Cumberland Islands.  Between the islands, open sounds emerge.  Many of these open to the Atlantic.  Traveling behind a protected island tends to be calm waters.  The sounds then give way to open choppy seas, often with much greater winds.  It is a progression.

Our two marina stops were at Delegal Creek Marina on Skidaway Island and Jekyll Harbor Marina on Jekyll Island.  The two locations highlighted significant differences between a contemporary upper class  sea island “private golf community” and an historic winter playground for the countries ultra rich.  Jekyll Island was used as a winter getaway between the 1890’s and 1940’s for America’s industrial tycoons.  It came to its demise during the Second World War when Nazi submarine activity off the coast forced the Government to close the island and purchase the property.  The island was ultimately deeded to the state of Georgia who has opened an historic settlement.  A bike ride across the island truly impressed us on the quality of architecture and wealth that defined the island at its height.  But, with the Holidays ahead, and schedules to be maintained we are pushing south to Florida.  Not giving either of these locations the time we wish we could give them.

 

We next push onward to Florida and the “Sunshine State” of mind.

 

Headed South Again

We left Myrtle Beach on Saturday after re-provisioning.  Most of the day we had residential development on both sides of the waterway.  This was interesting in its variety.  It was much like an art gallery that has hung all the different eras and styles of art randomly together on one long gigantic wall.  There were American palaces and ramshackle fishing cabins next to each other.  Like the art gallery it reinforces the truism that there is no accounting for taste …  We tied up for the night at a small marina near Murrells Inlet, with a golf club community on one side and a swamp on the other.  Here we discovered that even boaters get into the spirit of decorating for the holidays.  Both the marina and at least one large boat were gaily lit.

Christmas bear arrives by boat!

In the morning we floated out of the swamp into an area that had swamp vegetation mixed with beautiful marsh grasses.  The hybrid habitat included Spanish moss and some type of Cypress that has knees that emerge above the surface of the water, looking like wooden garden gnomes.  We also eyed a bird wading that look incredibly like a bald eagle, but we don’t think that eagles wade while they fished.  Any ideas?? 

 Cypress trees with their knees in the water.

 

Any ideas?  Ever seen a wading eagle before?

We eventually pulled into a small town, McClellanville, smaller then Oriental North Carolina, but just as charming.  This was once a very busy oyster harvesting and processing center.  Since canned oysters have gone out of fashion, they have managed to keep a sizable shrimping fleet on the water.  The town is full of Victorian and antebellum homes surrounded by live oaks dripping with Spanish moss.  Think of a scene from the Prince of Tides…

Monday morning did not dawn.  The rain pretty much drowned everything including the sunrise.  But we were determined that we were not going to spend a second day in McClellanville, having exhausted our curiosity the day before.  So we put on our foul weather gear and headed out onto the water in the rain – what the heck – water, water, everywhere… By 1000 we were soaked to the skin, but at least it was not cold – we have gotten to the point where we consider 60 degrees as warm.  Thankfully the rain stopped by noon and the sun came out just as we approached the beach area of Charleston – Sullivan’s Island.  Our entry into Charleston Harbor was gloriously sunny although blustery. 

We spent three days in Charleston and had a wonderful time.  We had a slip in a fairly new marina in town, that put us in walking distance to everything we wanted to do – Christmas shop, grocery shop, walk, ride our bikes and even take in a Christmas concert by the Vienna Boys Choir who did one show in town while we were there.  Charleston has grown immensely since we left 19 years ago. We visited old haunts and dear old friends.  We even made new friends at the marine, where half of the boats were going to stay in Charleston for the winter.  All the lady sailors bonded over breakfast one morning and shared stories and important information about places on the waterway. 

This was the view from our boat in the marina in Charleston.

We hated to leave, but we are still looking for temperatures consistently higher than 70 degrees.  We would like to sleep without the heat on at night and get back into our shorts.  So we departed early Friday to continue our push southward.  We had a wonderfully bright morning to photograph Charleston as we travelled through the harbor. 

 

The Charleston battery in the early morning.

The day was sunny, warm and uneventful until close to the end.  We were just about to enter a small creek where we were going to put down anchor for the night (since temperatures were going to be warm enough overnight to not require heat, and therefore electricity – hurrah, 50 degrees!!!  Anyway, as we rounded the bend just prior to the entrance to our overnight creek we came upon a very unfortunate soul who had not only run aground, but the tide had gone out and left him very high and dry.  He was sitting very dejectedly on the fore deck of his boat, but waved us on indicating that he did not need help. 

High and dry.  This makes for a very bad day.

We could only surmise that he had pulled to the side and anchored in order to sleep – although it was 3 pm .  When he woke the tide had left him very high and dry.  The tides in Carolina and Georgia can add or loose as much as 8 feet of water over a 6 hour period.  When we anchored, we had to be very aware that the tide would change at least twice while we were there and the currents would change direction and pull the boat different ways in the water.  Anyway, we anchored in our creek at dead low tide.  The water was so low we could see the oyster beds at the base of the marsh grass, but there was not a domicile or other structure in site; just birds, marsh, trees and water. We watched a beautiful sunset as the tide turned and came in quickly enough that the oyster beds were covered within 90 minutes.  The poor grounded soul would be floating in another 4 hours.

The views in our anchorage.

Saturday dawned clear and warm, and the tide was high, so we would be able to ride out with the tide.  This speeds up the boat as much as 30%, but then you will loose just as much when you are struggling against the tide.  One slightly disconcerting thing about another wise perfect morning, is that rather than the sun, we woke to the sounds of gunshots.  These were not particularly close and we guess that it must be deer or geese season.  We however made haste to ensure that we did not get between any hunter and their game.  We moved quickly through Beaufort and arrived in Hilton head in the early afternoon of a delightfully warm day with multiple porpoise sightings en route. They remain pretty camera shy.  I never seem to have my camera handy to document their existence.  Today, I had the camera, but both batteries were dead..  The weather and marina conspired to allow us to get a 2 hour bike ride around the island (they had loaner bikes so we didn’t have to bring ours up from the deep storage area}.  We were also treated to a colorful sunset, as we sat and planned for the less favorable weather coming in the next few days.

 

I've Got Plenty To Be Thankful For

I've got plenty to be thankful for
I haven't got A great big yacht To sail from shore to shore
Still I've got plenty to be thankful for

I've got plenty to be thankful for
No private car No caviar No carpet on my floor
Still I've got plenty to be thankful for

I've got eyes to see with Ears to hear with Arms to hug with Lips to kiss with
Someone to adore
How could anybody ask for more?
My needs are small I buy them all At the five and ten cent store
Oh, I've got plenty to be thankful for
                                                                 Bing Crosby


Cece and I have now proved just how busy life can get onboard Second Wind, and off.  Our Thanksgiving plans were very ambitious this year, as we had intended to spend the holiday in Jacksonville, FL with my father, then drive back to Annapolis to take care of house chores, and then finally on to New York City to meet our new Granddaughter, Johanna.  These plans translated themselves into a very busy two week tour of the Eastern Seaboard.  But, the execution of the plan reaffirmed for Cece and I just how much we have to be thankful for.  In keeping with the Holiday theme, here is our 2015 list of what we give thanks for with God's blessing (In no particular order):

1) Three remarkable children, and their spouses/significant others that bless their lives.
2) Two beautiful Granddaughters, Olivia and Johanna.  Two more beautiful souls God has never breathed life into.

3) My father, who at 92 years has lived a full and exceptional life .... and his lovely bride Keith.
4) Joan, my mother in law, who continues to live life with energy and so much caring.
5) Brothers, sisters and in-laws who make family real.
6) Friends, new and old, who mean so much to us.

On Thursday, December 3rd, after miles and miles in our rental car, we drove back to Myrtle Beach, where we had left Second Wind in the care of Sandy at the Coquina Yacht Club.  Friday was spent re-provisioning, and we now depart down the Inter-coastal waterway for Charleston, SC.  Cold weather chasing us, we plan a three day run into Charleston, with the hope of visiting some of our dearest friends.

Carolina in the Morning

 

Nothing could be finer than to be in Carolina in the morning
No one could be sweeter than my sweetie when I meet her in the morning
Where the morning glories twine around the door
Whispering pretty stories I long to hear once more

 

 

 

 

We awoke at 0630 on Tuesday.  I knew it was 0630 without looking at a clock because the sun was reaching into the portals over our bunk and burning through my eyelids, declaring a new day.  Finally we were going to leave Oriental, North Carolina.  After 11 days spent repairing both engines, propeller shaft, fixing propellers, and repainting the bottom  the boat work is done.  Now, we have a lot of time to make up.  Leaving early brings the beauty of a sunrise over the water.  It is a marvelous way to start a long day, where we will motor for 8 hours to make a small town called Swansboro by nightfall.  On the southern shore of the Neuse River we entered Adams creek and then into a man-made canal that emptied out into the beautiful Bogue Sound.  We had finally arrived in coastal Carolina. The mainland is to our right and beautiful barrier islands frosted by the green and gold tipped marsh grass are on our left as far as the eye can see.  Now we are surrounded by pelicans and even enjoy the occasional dolphin sightings.  Unfortunately, we seem to always miss the photo opportunity.  Luckily, we expect that we will have many more opportunities in the near future.  We made our goal Tuesday of Swansboro.  It is a nice small village, but big enough to have its own grocery store along with many antique and craft shops, and even an ice cream parlor.  We watched the sunset from a gentle porch swing placed in the waterfront park.    

 

 

Some could think that miles and miles of salt marsh would be tedium, like the corn fields of Nebraska, but not so.  There is really a lot of activity if you look for it; the blue heron fishing in its stealth like pose.  The pelican dive bombing the fish, hitting the water with a tremendous splash.  And of course the gray tailed F-16 Harrier jet as it fly’s “touch and go” exercises at Camp Lejunne.  Yes, the Intercoastal Waterway goes right through the Marine base.  And oh, by the way, you can’t float through if they happen to be taking target practice.  But they were not shooting at things as we passed the camp, they were flying very large, very loud aircraft that take off and land like helicopters, but fly like fighter jets.  It is totally weird when you watch them hover unmoving in mid air. 

 

 

We spent a wet Wednesday waiting out lousy weather after meeting a friend for wine and chili in Wrightsville Beach.  But there was a small craft advisory Thursday.  So we made the decision not to try to cross the Cape Fear River in winds greater than 25 mph and waves of 5-7 feet.  We stopped at a small N.C. state park called Carolina Beach and hiked through the 5 different types of coastal Carolina habitat.  We were actually in search of the elusive carnivore, the Venus Fly Trap, which grows wild in the Carolina swamps – who knew…  we found none, but it was a delightful way to pass an afternoon.

The next morning we were up literally before the sun.  The tide had been at the high point at 0300 am, and we had to ride across the Cape Fear River as the tide was going back out, because it was so strong it would take us twice as long to cross the river against the current.  So by 0630, we were on the river and on our second cup of coffee.  But it was entirely worth it.  The ride across the river was swift and beautiful as the sun came up over the barrier islands.  The trip from Carolina beach to Myrtle Beach was unique in that we were surrounded by herons, pelicans, dolphins (still no pictures – they are apparently camera shy), and even bald eagles.  But the most surprising was the wild goats.  I’m not really used to seeing goats standing on a deserted beach eating the sea grasses.  This leg of the trip through the low-country was also made more challenging by the multiple inlets running from the ocean to the Intercoastal Waterway.  With each inlet you would dramatically change speed as you approached depending on if the tide was running in or out.  Then as you reached the other side of the inlet your speed would do the exactly opposite as on the approach.  And all of the speed issues were complicated by the fact that this fast moving water tends to move the sand underneath, creating sandbars hidden just under the surface, waiting to stop a deep keel boat in its tracks.  We were behind one sailboat that requires about 5 feet of water for their keel, when they ran aground very hard.  They were able to radio back to us, and luckily, Bob had read the warnings on the internet about this particular area, and was able to talk them back off the sand bar.  I think it shot their confidence, hopefully not their keel, because they pulled over at the next marina.  We have met many boaters who have hit both moving and immovable objects in the waterway.  It is one of the greatest challenges a boater faces on the ICW.

 

Pure Joy

Wednesday the 4^th we were up with the dawn to cross the Albemarle Sound.   The chart guides we are using caution that the crossing of the sound can be extremely treacherous when winds build across the very shallow water.  The distance between high waves can be short, and the waves almost square in shape.  Boats can take a terrible beating if conditions are not right.  With what we thought would be near ideal conditions, we and a small fleet of boats left Elizabeth City at dawn and headed south-south east.  With waves less than a foot, and winds abeam, we motor sailed our way, along with a small fleet, on a warm cloudy day. 

At 8:50 am the text message came in from our son Justin that his wife Hanny was just admitted to labor and delivery.  Excitement was very high as texts flew back and forth with the family.  At about 11:30 we looked astern to the north and viewed a rainbow.  Pure joy as we remarked that this was an omen for a  healthy baby.  About 12:55, after our crossing, we were running up the Alligator River.  A text message came in.  It’s a healthy girl, 6 lbs 14 oz. 

Celebrations abound onboard tonight as we delight in our second granddaughter, Johanna Adelaide.

Carolina on My Mind

Our boat insurance policy has dictated our southern schedule by prohibiting us from cruising below Norfolk until after November 1^st  because of the risk of hurricanes.  With that date as our limiter, we stayed on in Hampton through the week, and again took a rental car excursion on Friday and Saturday to visit Yorktown, VA and to drive into Richmond to visit our dear friends Joe and Ellen.  The rental car company gave us a Fiat to drive, and we spent the weekend feeling like the Pope. 

The visit to Yorktown was another history lesson, as again we were fortunate enough to join a Park Ranger who turned the 1781 battle site into a riveting story of our nation’s birth.  Just how fortuitous events unfolded to allow a victory on that ground was realized only after spending the morning on tour and listening to the stories told.  Providence was surely a factor. 

After leaving Yorktown, we drove into Richmond and were wined and dined by Joe and Ellen as we celebrated Joe’s 60^th birthday. We spent our time discussing retirement and the next chapter in our lives.  A visit with them has always brought great joy to us, and this weekend was no different.

On Sunday November 1^st, against an overcast and drizzly day we left Hampton and headed into the Inter-costal Waterway (ICW).  We didn’t make it to mile marker 2 before we were turned back by a bridge closure.  They were using Sunday afternoon for maintenance.  We quickly went to plan B and headed into the High Street Free Docks in Portsmouth.  We then spent the afternoon walking the historic district.  Portsmouth’s residential historic district has a beautiful collection of homes dating from colonial, thru the revivals, Victorian, and early 1900s.  It’s just a fantastic lesson in architectural evolutions, and a well cared for neighborhood.

 

Monday the 2^nd , we were up in a driving rain pushing the boat south down the ICW to the Great Dismal Swamp Cut and North Carolina.  The run through the canal was beautiful though a little dangerous.  We  hit dead wood logs in the canal and a tree canopy overhead that almost took down our mast.  Who knew that you had to watch out for tree overhangs when you were in a boat – not an issues on the Chesapeake Bay.  The water is very different from the Bay also.  Where the Chesapeake is usually a beer bottle green, the water in the Great Dismal swamp was the color of Guinness, in the glass, a very dark brown, almost black, from the tannins created by all the decaying forest materials. It is very different cruising through a canal carved out in a swamp, but the trip was well worth it, complete with two locks and a visit at the Great Dismal Swamp Visitor Center.

Tuesday the 3rd we completed the beautiful passage through the canals in dry weather. After the second lock, the canal opened up onto the Elizabeth river which was just a very quiet, tranquil southerly flow, almost dreamlike, with some of the most beautiful scenery we’ve seen from the water.  Our arrival in Elizabeth City in the late afternoon was greeted first by a local welcoming committee of very entertaining and friendly local representatives and then by Whitt and Karen, good friends of our dear friends Christer and Camilla. We spent a wonderful evening with Whitt and Karen at a local Oyster House eating some of the finest fried oysters on earth. Presented in the very Carolina style of accompanied by slaw, hush puppies, and French fries (no one thought that Cece was going 10 months without french fries did they?).

An Historic Interlude

Saturday morning, the 24^th of October, we made an early morning departure from Deltaville, VA and sailed the 44 nautical miles down the bay to Hampton, VA.  With light winds, and a following tide, we were able to motor sail down in relative comfort and in good speed.  Temperatures on the water were in the high 50s, and we stayed bundled up in the cockpit, moving around as best we could to snuggle into the sun light. 

We pulled into Hampton Roads at about 3:30, and by 4:00 were tied up at the docks of the Downtown Hampton Public Piers.  We are using this location as a base to tour the region which is deep in American colonial, revolutionary and civil war history.  Keeping with the good fortune we’ve had to date on the cruise, we found that Hampton was using the weekend to re-enact the Revolutionary Battle of Hampton. This historic conflict was fought Oct 26–27, 1775. The Battle marked the beginning of revolutionary warfare outside of Massachusetts. Six months had passed since the battles of Lexington and Concord, but blood was not shed elsewhere until fighting started between Virginia patriots and forces aligned with Britain.  The British withdrew from the Hampton channel after stiff resistance from local militia, minutemen, and patriots on shore.  The loss of life in the battle was minimal, but the symbolism of the battle to Virginia was very significant, and helped solidify the resolve of Virginians for independence from England.

 

 

The re-enactment was performed by volunteer re-enactors that set up a camp in The Mill Point Park, two blocks from our slip.  We spent Sunday following the re-enactment and watching demonstrations of daily revolution camp life. We also caught up with a historic tour of Hampton that was conducted by historian, Michael Cobb, who is on staff with the Hampton History Museum.  We ended the day with a much greater understanding of Hampton’s rich history, and its place in American History.

 

In keeping with our Colonial History theme, on Monday we rented a car and set off for Jamestown and Williamsburg.  Our luck held again, when we arrived in Jamestown just in time to join an archeology tour that walked the current archeological digs and reviewed some of the research’s findings.  An onsite archeologist gave the tour, and it was very interesting.  We found that much of the history that we learned 50 years ago in grade school, is proving wrong.  The research is providing a much better understanding of early Jamestown life, and rewriting the history of early settlement in the Americas. 

                            This is the foundation of the church were Pocahontas married John Rolfe as excavated by the archeological dig.  The house is an example of what an original Jamestown structure would be within the fort, outlined by what looks like a pretty flimsy stick wall.  But I guess the settlers had guns and the natives did not!

We followed up the Jamestown tour with an afternoon in Williamsburg.  A long walk down Duke of Gloucester Street, past the Governor’s House, Courthouse, Capital, and Market Square occupied our afternoon.  The historic area is an interpretation of a colonial American city, with exhibits of dozens of restored or re-created buildings related to its colonial and tangential American Revolutionary War history.  In many ways we recognized the reconstruction was an idealized version of what the town once was.  But the fantasy world of colonial life was fun to immerse ourselves in, and the performance of the parks re-enactors was fun to watch. 

The colonial governors mansion.

 

The Capitol building.

 

 

Boat Yoga

In the cruising lifestyle there are really 3 different types of exercise.  A very common type is the upper body only lifting - glass to mouth, repeated multiple times daily.  Other cruisers are very dedicated to ensure that they get some aerobic activity daily to keep other muscles in shape.  We have tried to get an hour each day of walking or bike riding.  But unless you have a boat staff you cannot escape the boat Yoga.  As an explanation, boat yoga is the practice of core muscle exercises that occur when you are standing on one leg reaching over a hot engine to try to turn a lever that is 4 feet in front of you, climbing over your partner in a confined space just to get to the head, or my personal favorite is having to climb over the dingy lines to get under the dingy as it hangs off the back of the boat, just to  plug in the electric cable into the boats outlet.  We find that boat yoga is a pretty effective way to slowly recondition.  Climbing even the short ladders and up onto the upper areas of the boat, multiple times each day is more exercise then tapping the key board or reaching for the phone repeatedly as in our former life (the phone reach is at least replaced by the beer bottle reach).  So we are really please to say that not only are we finding the lifestyle more relaxing, but also very invigorating. 

We are closing out 2 days in another very rural Virginia community.  We have been in Deltaville, Virginia for the last 2 nights.  It is a lovely farming community rimmed by marina that line the bay and river.  We have spent our time reprovisioning, walking and even did some house cleaning - it took less then 40 minutes to clean 2 bathrooms and vacuum the entire inside of the boat.  Living Tiny!!!  We walked this morning to the local Maritime Museum.  They had 2 lovely gardens, including a wooded one filled with water bird sculptures. 

They also had a great model boat collection and a beautifully restored "Buy Boat" from 1924 which is actually on the National Register of Historic Places because it was one of the last boats where the hull was laid of actual logs rather then the more modern, milled wood planks.  She is a beautiful, graceful boat whose job was to go out to the Oyster boats and buy their harvest so that the Oystermen did not have to come back into port to sell their catch, wasting lots of time in the era prior to 240 horsepower engines.    Now that she is retired she looks like she could be anywhere gliding across the water with happy people on her decks.

Solomon Island

On Thursday we arrived in Solomon Island ahead of a Canadian cold front that moved down from the north. With a small craft advisory and cold nights in the forecast, Cece and I used Zanhiser's Yachting Center as a port of refuge waiting for the weather to clear.  Zanhiser's has been a comfortable port of call for us for a number of years now.  Just 27 months ago we were here on the night that our granddaughter Olivia was born. It is a well run marina, with good staff and wonderful facilities.

Over four days we used our time to walk, ride bikes, visit with family, enjoy sculpture gardens, and attend the National Oyster Shucking Championships held in St Mary's County, Maryland.  Shifting from moorings to the docks, we were able to access electricity that keeps our small space heater pumping out heat to combat the cold nights.  We were also able to attend to some of the small boat chores that serve as the backdrop to this lifestyle.  Time was spent making the obligatory trip to West Marine for more boat parts.

We joined my niece Lauren, nephew Brandon, his wife Hermaine, and two year old daughter Ellen for a day trip to the National Oyster Shucking Championships at the St. Mary's fairground.  The weekend event was a cross between a county fair and oyster roast.  Thousands of Southern Marylanders turn out for the event that includes seafood, crafts, and Oyster Shucking competition.  The highlight of our visit was watching the women's national finals with five women competing for a chance to represent the U.S. In the world championship's in Gallway Ireland (who knew).  Watching these women tear through 24 oysters for the best time was memorable.  There final score is based on a combination of time and quality, with penalties for cut oysters, chipped shells, improperly cut muscles.  

Another highlight of the visit was a bike ride to AnnMarie Sculpture Garden.  An extraordinary landscape filled with outdoor sculpture, many on loan from the National Gallery of Art or the Smithsonian Hirshhorn.  A beautiful forested walk highlights the amazing art.

Cece and I are beginning to settle into a different rhythm of life.  Traffic, stop lights, television are not a part of our daily lives.  Replaced, instead by boat chores, pumping out, filling water tanks, and spending hours over charts and weather maps.  It's looking good so far.

We depart again tomorrow, working our way towards warmer weather.  We hope anyway.

Heading South

With 30 degree nights in the forecast, we finally cast off our dock lines and have set our course south. 

The last three weeks have been consumed with preparation for the cruise.  Thanks to the assistance and support of family and friends, Second Wind and her crew are ready. 

Our departure from the Magothy River was celebrated by two natives in kayaks who paddled out, with the rising sun, to toss native made lei onto the decks of Second Wind for good luck.  John and Bobby, dear friends, blessed the start of the journey with their warm well wishes and gifts.  Cece and I spent the day wearing the lei and enjoying a smile.  Even now they hang from the mast step as good luck charms.

The first days run began in a morning light so bright that we were blinded to the mileage marker buoy that was hidden amongst the sparkle of an early fall sun on the water...Bang !  What was that.  Cece was really glad that Bob was at the helm.   But no apparent harm done and the rest of the day was beautiful, crisp, mild temps and following seas that pushed us into a delightful area south of Annapolis called North Beach.  It is wonderful traveling off season on the bay when you have virtually any place to yourself.  We occupied ourselves by taking a 3 mil walk around the marina looking at all the boats snugged up in their slips, either because of the threat of last weeks hurricane or already winterized for the end of the season.  A few looked tired, a few looked odd, and many of them looked liked somethings only in our dreams.

We left North Beach again to brilliant sunshine creating a glistening path to navigate as we head eastward to get back to the bay.  BANG!  What was that!  This time Cece at the helm hit a crab pot.  Luckily, again no harm done, but I think we'll sleep in tomorrow and let the sun do its dancing while we sit safely in the harbor, not wanting to tempt strike 3!  Happily we have stopped for the night in one of our favorite towns, Solomon Island, Maryland.  Something like a small Maine seatown only with nicer weather and a longer sailing season.

The Shakedown Cruise

Second Wind has undergone extensive repair and many upgrades over the last five months.  Work has included, in part: installing new batteries, new solar panels, replacing the refrigerator's compressor, repairing her auto-helm,  rebuilding her sea water pumps, installing a new VHF radio with AIS, replacing the engine mixing elbows, replacing her macerator, repairing the Bimini, installing new davits, installing a wash down pump, replacing hoses, and servicing a host of boat systems.  Working through these repairs has served as a great education and prepared Second Wind and her crew for her cruise. The work was accomplished behind the guidance, help, and engineering of Christer Broman, a good friend who served as "boat mentor", Yoda, and handyman in completing the work.  His time spent squeezed in the engine room with wrench in hand was indispensable to the boat's preparation.  His direction and advise were invaluable. 

Before setting off on the main cruise, a shakedown cruise was planned to test the boat's readiness.  On Monday September 14, one month before our planned departure, we set off on a three day voyage.  We set out mid afternoon for the Chesapeake's eastern shore with 10 knots of westerly wind. We motor-sailed, sailed, and powered our way through three days of mostly tranquil boating behind a high pressure weather system that settled in the area.  We performed testing of every piece of equipment or system onboard. A final punch list of equipment and repairs has been the final product of this effort.  Second Wind is almost ready.

Our night anchorages included Swan Creek outside Rock Hall and Queenstown Creek.  In Queenstown, there was a feeling of intense well being as we sat in the middle of a silent creek as wide as five football fields.  We shared the creek with one other sailboat.  The evening sunset was spectacular.  And, our morning was disturbed only by the repeated splash of fish jumping or the spritz of small "bait fish" below the water's surface as their frenetic movement rippled the water surface.  Our sense of well being was further enhanced as we watched four bald eagles roosting in trees along the water's edge.  The eagles sat quietly watching us drink our morning coffee, quiet observers to a tranquil landscape.  A working crab boat slowly drifted across our morning canvass,  with the low hum of it's diesel engine providing "color" to the picture unfolding.  When we finally heard the crabber onboard his boat talking into his cell phone, Cece observed that being a waterman is not a job for an extrovert.  Moments later, one of the eagles soared into the air and swooping along the waters surface pulled a small fish from the water.  Cece questioned how a great bird like this could ever land while clutching a fish in its talons.  I had no answers to her question and also pondered the problem as I again sipped my coffee.  Its moments like this that I remember why I love the water and yachting.

Our return to home port came all too soon.  We pulled anchor and tested the new wash-down pump as we washed mud from anchor and chain.  All systems working .......

With less than a month before our departure, we are in the final stretch and preparations almost complete.  Still, work remains.

Second Wind is an Island Packet Cat, designed by Robert Johnson and sailed since 2012 by Bob and Cece Clarke.  A solid boat, at thirty five feet, she has provided safety and comfort to our cruising along the U.S. east coast and inland waters of the Chesapeake.

In October 2015, following our retirement, we plan on sailing Second Wind south.  The waters of the Intercoastal Waterway and Bahamas will be our destination.  Our voyages have always brought us soul expanding experiences.  Sailing around a new headlands and into a new anchorage has always expanded our world view.  Meeting and sharing life with those that also share our joy in the water has brought us a renewed energy.  And, after working in offices for 40 years, sailing commended itself to us as complete a change in lifestyle as could be hoped for.  Its active, healthy promise, we hope, will help us find our own second wind in life.

Voyages like ours don't happen without help.  The support of friends and family serve as the foundation from which we have been able to chase our dream.  We maintain berths for you all, in hopes you will be able to join us at times during our cruise.